Avlea BitKit Iris Paintbox Cross Stitch Folk Embroidery Ki

$28.00

• Designer: Avlea Folk Embroidery
• Project Type: Cross Stitch Mini Table Runner
• Finished Size: 8" x 10"
• Stitch Area: 75 x 93 Stitches
• Stitch Count: 2,222 Cross Stitches, 2,462 Backstitches
• Stitches Used: Cross Stitch, Backstitch
• Skill Level: Beginner
• Format: Kit

Kit Includes

• 26-Count 100% Cotton Traditional Groundcloth in Natural
• DMC 6-Strand Embroidery Floss
• John James Size 24 Cross Stitch Needle
• Full-Color Chart and Instructions

Product Description

Avlea’s BitKit Iris Paintbox is a smaller, beginner-friendly version of one of the most beloved designs in the Avlea collection. It offers a wonderful introduction to Greek folk embroidery without the time commitment of a larger project.

The design traces its origins to an embroidered table scarf purchased from a needleworker in the Agrinio area of mainland Greece in the 1970s. That original textile was itself inspired by Greek folk costume, connecting this small project to a much longer tradition of regional embroidery.

Simple geometric elements are worked in a lively rainbow of colors within a traditional terra cotta and black framework. Individually, the motifs are straightforward; together, they build into a striking geometric composition that feels surprisingly modern while remaining rooted in traditional Greek needlework.

BitKits are designed to offer a "little bit of stitching," making Iris Paintbox especially approachable for someone discovering folk embroidery for the first time. It's worked in cross stitch and backstitch on Avlea’s 26-count Traditional Groundcloth and can be started with no previous cross stitch experience.

The finished piece measures 8" x 10" and makes a beautiful mini table runner. Please note that the drawn-thread hem shown in finished photographs is completed after stitching. The fabric included in the kit arrives with its raw edges serged to prevent unraveling while you work.

Why We Love It at A Show of Hands

We love that this gives you the full character of Iris Paintbox in a much more approachable project. The unusual combination of tiny geometric forms and brilliant color is what makes the original so captivating, and none of that personality is lost at this smaller scale.

It's also an ideal way to try Avlea and traditional folk embroidery before committing to a large project. And if you fall in love with the design, you can move on to the full-size Iris Paintbox table runner.

Perfect For

• First-time cross stitchers
• Beginning folk embroiderers
• Greek folk art and textile lovers
• Small, approachable stitching projects
• Geometric embroidery enthusiasts
• Traditional handwork
• Slow stitching
• Handmade gifts
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Gather and craft Join us in our store for crafting, to ask questions, or dream up new projects!
Pay with Apple Pay We offer Apple Pay as a swift and secure way to make a payment at checkout.
Order online, collect in-store Choose in-store collection at checkout to pick up your order at select Fresh locations.
Gather and craft Join us in our store for crafting, to ask questions, or dream up new projects!

We’re here for the love of it and the fun of it. For the craft that connects us to something older than any of us.

Fiber Information

Yarn Weight + WPI

Yarn weight refers to the thickness of a yarn. Thickness determines appropriate needle or hook size, finished fabric density, and yardage requirements. Standard weight categories from thinnest to thickest: lace, fingering, sport, DK, worsted, bulky, super bulky.


Weight labels on yarn are approximate. Wraps per inch (WPI) gives a more precise measurement. To measure WPI: wrap yarn snugly around a ruler for one inch, without overlapping strands or stretching. Count the wraps.


WPI reference:

  • 30+ WPI: lace
  • 20–28 WPI: fingering
  • 14–18 WPI: sport
  • 11–14 WPI: DK
  • 9–11 WPI: worsted
  • 7–8 WPI: bulky
  • Fewer than 7 WPI: super bulky

WPI is most useful when a label is missing, when substituting yarns, or when working with handspun yarn.

Gauge and Sett

Gauge is the number of stitches and rows per inch in a knitted or crocheted fabric. It is determined by yarn weight, needle or hook size, and individual tension. A pattern’s gauge is the measurement the designer used to calculate sizing. If your gauge does not match the pattern, your finished dimensions will differ. A small difference over many inches makes a big difference in fit.

To adjust gauge: a smaller needle or hook produces more stitches per inch; a larger needle or hook produces fewer. The goal is to match the pattern’s gauge, not its suggested needle size.


Sett is the weaving equivalent of wraps per inch (WPI). Sett controls how open or dense the finished woven cloth will be. A standard starting point for sett is half the WPI for a balanced plain weave. Twill structures generally require a slightly closer sett; lace structures a more open one.


Both gauge and sett are starting points that need to be confirmed by sampling. Calculate first, then verify with a swatch. Record what you find; your future self will thank you.

Wet Blocking

Blocking is the process of wetting a finished piece, shaping it, and allowing it to dry. It evens out stitches, sets the final dimensions, and for lace, opens the pattern fully.


For protein fibers (wool, alpaca, cashmere): soak in cool water with a small amount of wool wash until fully saturated, typically 15 to 20 minutes. Gently press out water without wringing. Roll in a towel to remove excess moisture. Lay flat, shape to finished measurements, and pin if needed. Allow to dry completely before moving.


For lace pieces, blocking wires threaded through edge stitches produces cleaner lines than pins alone.


Fiber-specific notes:

  • Wool holds its blocked shape well once dry.
  • Silk and silk blends block well and dry quickly.
  • Linen and cotton do not respond to blocking the same way protein fibers do, but wet finishing still softens and settles the fiber.
    Steam blocking is appropriate for fibers that should not be fully saturated. Hold the iron several inches above the surface. Do not press down on wool -- direct pressure and heat flatten the fiber's loft.

    Block to finished measurements, not to the dimensions of the piece as it came off the needles or loom.